Preserving The Shine : India’s First Museum On Chettinad Jewellery
In India, jewellery is often considered more than just an ornament; it is timeless, ingrained in the memory, ritual and identity. Due to India’s rich culture and heritage, various traditional jewellery pieces hold their own story.
And whenever there is a mention of traditional jewellery in the south, “Chettinad Jewellery’s” name is one of the first to appear. In the Chettinad region of Tamil Nadu, this jewellery had held significant weight, serving as a statement of artistry, culture, status and faith. Wherein every Chettinad jewellery has a unique story to tell.
Each piece of Chettinad’s jewellery is crafted with precise detailing and a sense of expression, communicating the legacy of goldsmiths, which has been passed across generations in their families.
Now, this legacy will be preserved with the opening of Pettagam, India’s first museum dedicated entirely to Chettinad jewellery. A new private museum, Pettagam, showcasing Chettinad jewellery, is opening in the first week of October in Karaikudi, located in Tamil Nadu’s Sivaganga district.
It is the result of Meenu Subbiah’s 30 years of work to bring back a jewellery style that used to be important to the Nagarathar (also known as Nattukottai Chettiar) community in the southern part of the region.
This museum serves as a first big step in preserving jewellery along with its vast history, culture and meaning.
Image Courtesy: Chugath Jewellery
A Glimpse into the History of Chettinad Jewellery
Chettinad jewellery, which comes from the Chettinad district of Tamil Nadu, is generally popular for its spicy and delicious food, and includes mostly temple jewellery designs that were influenced by the rich temples constructed by dynasties such as the Cholas. Through interactive sessions, mentorship, and discussions, women were introduced to the dynamic world of jewellery manufacturing — gaining valuable insights into teamwork, personal growth, leadership, and the evolving career avenues within the industry.
A home to Nagarathar (or Nattukottai Chettiar) community in the Chettinad region, its traditional roots and history are linked with wealthy financiers and merchants.
As the Chettiars traded across South Asia, Sri Lanka and Burma, there was a huge influence on the designs of the jewellery, particularly due to the access to luxury materials, and gemstones such as ruby and emeralds. Between the 2nd and 5th centuries CE, there was mention of ruby-studded anklets in the early Tamil Literature, such as Silappatikaram, symbolising culture, and indicating the use of gemstones.
Meenu stated that the Nagarathar group was originally made up of brave traders who migrated the Chettinad culture to other countries across the sea and gave Chettinad a worldwide influence. Their jewellery designs and culture represent the community’s journey.
The museum’s name was taken from a local custom. As stated by Meenu, every Nagarathar home used to have a “pettagam” (locker), an iron strongbox, where diamonds, gold, and other kinds of pearls purchased both locally and overseas were kept. It is retained with the traditional Chettinad design, wherein the museum’s ground floor chronicles the history of the Nagarathars and their jewels.
Image Courtesy: Regal Jewellers
Over the years, Chettinad jewellery has shaped up various signature elements, including male ceremonial jewels like Gauri Shankaram, Kazhuthuru, a heavy bridal necklace made from many interlinked parts, a reflection of trade routes and environment in the parts of marine life like conch and crabs. The patterns and motifs are often inspired by nature, such as peacock and lotus, Kasu Malas, also known as a coin necklace, etc.
As time evolved and trades shifted, the diamonds replaced rubies in some jewellery pieces. However, Chettinad jewellery is a tradition that is constantly changing while maintaining its foundations in meaning, identity, and artistry.
Significance of Chettinad Jewellery
Chettinad’s jewellery has travelled across timelines and generations, carrying layers of meaning in its existence. It has everything ingrained in it, right from the family history, to deep cultural beliefs, rituals and master artistry. Primarily, the Chettinad jewellery is immaterial, as it not only embodies expert craftsmanship but has also been passed down through generations, transcending material value and evoking emotions.
Image Courtesy: Regal Jewellers
There has also been a story of trade and commerce associated with this jewellery wherein there has been import of gems, designs and motifs inspired by global styles, that the community experienced during the travel and maritime.
Moreover, it serves as a valuable identity mark for the Chettair community, signifying a crucial part of their visual culture as it was worn on important events such as marriages and ceremonies. Therefore, it makes it even more significant to retain and preserve them.
Why Preserving Jewellery in a Museum Matters?
Chettinad has enjoyed a rich heritage over the years with its delicious cuisines, ancient architecture and traditional handlooms, but till now, there has been no dedicated place for the jewellery to preserve its true essence.
Everyone is aware of Chettinad’s mansions and textiles, but somehow its jewellery remained “underdocumented.”
The stories about the elements, knowledge about the making of the piece and motifs were at risk of being lost. Even Meenu Subbiah, who was curating the museum, faced a lot of challenges in acquiring it, as she had to visit temples, use black and white photographs, and even sketches to reconstruct the museum.
Preserving it in a museum will provide it a safe place, a controlled environment, expert care, and secure display. It can protect the Chettinad jewellery from external damage such as humidity and pollution. This not only ensures its material care but also serves as a record of culture.
Furthermore, it becomes a great tool of knowledge to scholars, students, architects, and even the general public for learning. Eventually, it connects present and future generations with its traditional history. The design of Pettagam in Karaikudi is in such a way that it provides beyond just jewellery, including various stories and multimedia experiences.
How Preservation Should Be Done for Other Indian Jewellery Traditions Too?
India has various jewellery traditions across different regions and states like Meenakari, Tribal, Rajut, etc., which also reflect deep cultural roots and traditions, which are not paid enough attention to. There are various ways in which these could be preserved, just like Chettinad jewellery:
Firstly, documentation plays a vital role in preserving any of the traditional jewellery. It is crucial to preserve knowledge and culture along with physical pieces, which could be achieved through sketching, photographs, measurements and various other recording techniques.
The second most important factor includes physical conservation, by keeping it in a safe place, a secure display, and a controlled environment. The Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) and other institutions have already provided multiple instructions and guidelines to achieve physical preservation.
Lastly, building museums as a separate space for this traditional jewellery is very significant as it helps in sharing knowledge, inspiring, and educating future generations. It is also not necessary to set up central museums; instead, regional museums could be opened, making it more accessible for the general public.
Conclusion
Moreover, the real value and heritage of the Chettinad jewellery lies in its stories, history, identity and craft rather than in material items like gold, ruby or gems. Pettagam, India’s first private museum of Chettinad jewellery, not only preserves precious jewellery pieces, but it also preserves memory and culture with it.
It serves as a major example for other traditional jewellery to follow similar paths and preserve India’s jewellery for new generations. This way, legacy lives through use, knowledge and memories.